TINGATINGA´S SACRED PLACES

It is refreshing to see that Makua people have in some extent preserved their own believes up to now. Especially when they were influenced by Christianity and Islam under many centuries. That´s why you will find both Christian and Muslim Makua in south Tanzania and northern Mozambique. They live in harmony with each other. But before colonial times the Makua people used to pray under the canopy of Msoro tree. Now they may not practise it anymore but there is much more interesting place where Makua people pray. And that place is not easy to find, certainly not anything for a traditional tourist. 

The bath in Bwawani could heal, believe the Makua people. That is why thousands of people came here. The process of bath has some rules like entering the pond through red and white blankets.

The place is called Mkwera Bwawani, simply translated as Mkwera pond situated 4 km from the main road Lindi - Ndanda. When I arrived to the sacred place I met the man, the traditional healer who resides at the place since 1987. He was disturbed that I came “only” to look at the place. Without any “higher reason” I was not welcomed. But when he saw I had a respect for the African traditional believes he eventually allowed me in. The pond is said to be a place of miracles in 1960s. Since then Bwawani was visited by thousands of sick people and fortune seekers alike. The bathe in the pond is holy and a short ceremony must be executed before entering the waters.

 The house of the healer Masudi is simple reflecting the modest nature of his believes. He can´t charge any patient for healing, for instance.

The healer´s name is Masudi, a man of around 70 years. He is blind. According to his believe he is not allowed to charge anybody. He has built a house ca 30 metres from the pond. When I entered the house I was given a special medicine by his assistants. Then I could enter Masudi´s room separated by red and white blankets. He told me with clear and decisive voice to respect the place. He told me it was open to all people of all colours. Whites, Blacks, Arabs….Unfortunately he had bad experience with Whites and discrimination.
 

The Hungurwe mountain, the holy place of Makua people is seen from the main Lindi Ndanda road.  It is not possible to approach it with any vehicle, just by walk.

Another holy place for Makua is the mountain Hungurwe ca 10 km from the road Lindi – Ndanda. It is not far from the above mentioned Mkwera Bwawani. The Hungurwe has more historical than religious importance. It was place of resistance against Ngoni tribe which Makua have fought against. The Makua hide weapons there.  But it was not before the chief Mwenye Hatia the 3rd was buried there last century that the mountain gained a kind of holy status.  Usually Makua people are scared to climb the mountain because of bad devils. Only with a guide it  is possible to visit the place. When visiting the place take a lot of white blankets with you to cover the burial place!